Buying Pearls - Tricks and Traps

Buying pearls needn't be fraught. A little knowledge and a bit of common sense when it comes to marketing hype will see you through. If you haven't done so already, have a read of pearl qualities and grades to get an understanding of the pearl grading system.

If you don't know a lot about pearls (and most people don't, including your average high street jeweller) this page will help you avoid some of common pitfalls.
   Pearl Guide
pearl history a brief history of pearls
how pearls are formed how pearls are formed
pearl qualities and grades pearl qualities and grades
pearl shapes and colours pearl shapes and colours
pearl sizes pearl sizes and comparisons
choosing and caring for pearls choosing and caring for pearls
buying pearls buying pearls - tricks and traps
Variations of the Grading System

Although there is no universal standard for grading pearls most reputable sellers adopt the A, AA, AAA system. Tahitian pearls may be graded using the A to AAA system or an A to D system.

Unfortunately even this unofficial standard can be abused if a seller uses a grade like AAA to describe pearls which do not meet the generally accepted quality criteria for that grade.

Sometimes, definitions not in the grading system like AAAA or AAA+ imply the pearls are superior. When you see this, discount one A or the plus sign when comparing products.

The term 'gem quality' is a legitimate description for pearls without fault. Such pearls are more likely to be used in earrings, pendants and rings than in necklaces or bracelets.

Misleading Terminology

Investment Grade: Pearls are a wonderful natural gem but they are not an investment and will not appreciate in value. It's hard to put a price on second-hand pearls because, unlike gold or silver, they have no 'scrap' value.

Japanese Akoya Pearls: This description has been abandoned by most pearl professionals. Japan is the world's largest importer of Chinese Akoya pearls where they are processed and re-exported. A 'Japanese Akoya Pearl Necklace' will almost certainly contain a high proportion of Chinese Akoya pearls.

Whether a pearl originated from the coastal waters of China or Japan is in any case irrelevant. A pearl is judged by it's size, shape, lustre, surface quality and colour - not it's birthplace. Like fine wine, no country has a monopoly on quality.
The Blue Tag Scheme

The Japanese Pearl Exporters Association Inspection Tag (the blue tag) is sometimes used to denote quality.
the JPEA blue tag
The JPEA is a voluntary organisation which examines pearls from any country and passes or fails them on the basis that they meet a minimum market standard.

A blue tag doesn't mean the pearls were cultured in Japan, are top grade, or any better than pearls without a tag.

Think of it in the same way as a car MOT. A certificate says only that the vehicle passes a minimum roadworthiness standard. It doesn't mean it's a good car or that it won't break down next week.
Imitation Pearls

Go by many names. Simulated, organic, faux and semi-cultured are sometimes used.

Good imitations are made from beads of glass, ceramic or shell and coated with a varnish of laquer and ground fish scales to mimic the pearl surface.

Well made imitations can be quite hard to spot. One way is the 'tooth test'. Gently rub the pearl under the cutting edge of your top front teeth. Don't bite it.

A real pearl should feel slightly gritty due to it's crystaline structure. An imitation pearl will feel smooth. This is not an infallible test.

Save 80% !!!

"Retail price £1350. Our price £275."

Unless you normally buy your jewellery in Knightsbridge you are not going to save 80% by shopping for pearls on-line.

From a specialist internet pearl retailer look to pay between a half and a third the price of an equivalent pearl product in a department store or high street jeweller.
Black Pearls

Black pearls are rarely jet black but blue, green, grey, aubergine, peacock and more. Green is the predominant colour.
black pearls
Naturally coloured black pearls come from the pearl farms of French Polynesia (Tahitian pearls) as well as Indonesia and the Phillipines.

Except for freaks, there are no natural black freshwater or Akoya pearls though these may be dyed or irradiated to simulate black pearls. This isn't a problem - it doesn't harm the pearls - unless they are passed off as natural or Tahitian.

Genuine Tahitian pearls are subject to stringent quality control inspections by the Tahitian government. Some pearls may by-pass this scrutiny so it's sensible to buy from a trusted source.
Nacre Thickness

Think of a white marble covered with a single coat of clear nail varnish. It'll look good when new - round, shiny and flawless. After a few months or so there'll be chips in the varnish and soon whole areas will flake or peel off. That's pretty much what can happen when the nacre covering a bead nucleated pearl is too thin.

flaking nacre Thin nacre is a potential cause of disappointment when buying seawater pearls (it's not usually a problem with Tahitian or South Sea pearls and freshwater pearls are solid nacre). Commercial pressure may force pearl farmers to harvest pearls early, with nacre less than 0.2mm.

It's difficult to spot thin nacre on delivery. There can be a clue around the drill holes. If these are inspected with the aid of a magnifying glass and the nacre is already cracked or peeling away, it's not a good sign.